2015+ WRX Install Overview for the iBR BRZ Manifold Adapter Kit

This is a basic set of install instructions for the iBR BRZ Manifold Bolt-On kit. These instructions apply to the 2015+ WRX Platform and will be very similar to the 2014-2018 Forester XT. The pictures below were taken on a car that was mostly stock so that we could show connections to factory locations as much as possible. Other modifications that we suggest for a healthy build like an Air-Oil Separator can change how some of the connections are made. You should default to the AOS install instructions to make the appropriate changes.

You can see here we are starting with a fairly stock engine bay. The FMIC tubing has been removed and the main fuel line going to the piping on the intake manifold has been depressurized and removed. Next we will remove the eight bolts that bolt the intake manifold to the top of the TGV assemblies.

Disconnect All Sensors and Conections from the Intake Manifold

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MAP/IAT Sensor (blue circle)
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Crank Case Vent Tube (yellow)
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Alternator Wiring (remove negative terminal on battery before touching this!)

EVAP and Bypass Valve Connections(green)

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Brake Booster Line (to Vacuum Pump) 
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Remove the Fuel Line and EVAP bracket. We will not be reusing this bracket or the fuel line between the bracket and the HPFP. The fuel line coming from the firewall can hook directly to the HPFP to simplify the system. If you are using a flex fuel kit then connect the firewall line to the kit and the kit directly to the HPFP. Depending on the connections on the kit the BRZ manifold may need to be trimmed or the HPFP bent downward.

There is a hidden bolt under the manifold near where the EGR valve used to be. You can see it in the upper right portion of the photo. This photo is taken pointing towards the front of the car. This bolt holds the EVAP solenoids to the WRX intake manifold.

The last thing you need to do before removing the factory intake manifold is to unbolt the throttle body. If you unbolt it now it will be easier to disconnect the coolant lines without having to work around the intake manifold.

Here is what the engine compartment should look like after the intake manifold is removed. This is a good time to go ahead and remove the throttle body coolant lines and electrical connection. Make sure to clamp off the lines before removing them since some coolant will come out. Use the 5/16" elbow connection that comes in the kit to connect these lines together as they will not be connected to the throttle body in the new location.

Remove the TGV assemblies, both the valve body and the lower black plastic runner. If you have iBR Complete TGV Housings then these are all one piece. Then go ahead and transfer the gasket from the bottom of the black plastic runner (or iBR TGV) to the bottom of the intake manifold adapters that come in the kit.

Use the allen head cap bolts that come with the kit to bolt the manifold adapters down to the heads. There is an allen T Handle tool that comes with the kit to make this process much easier. At this point you can test fit the manifold to make sure the bolt holes line up properly. Small adjustments in the position of the Adapters might be needed to get everything lined up properly.

When test fitting the manifold there are a few small tweaks that may need to be done to get everything to fit properly without touching.  See the next couple steps and make sure to look at the correct directions for the intake manifold you are planning to use.

For the red aluminum intake manifold:

The small adjustment for this intake manifold is the fuel inlet connection to the High Pressure Fuel Pump. The connector on the fuel line does not clear part of the casting. This small corner of the casting near the fuel rail mounts is not a critical area and can be easily removed with a grinder. The quicker option to fitting is to just slightly bend the inlet port on the HPFP. We use an 11mm deep socket to slide over the inlet connection and tap very lightly with a small hammer. It is easy to bend and bends very nicely.

For the black plastic intake manifold:

This modification is even easier than with the red intake manifold. On this manifold there is just a small piece of webbing from the injection molded design that can rub on the HPFP high pressure line going to the fuel rails. You can see it when you test fit the manifold where the hard line wraps around the intake manifold. Mark where the line touched the manifold and trim the plastic with pliers or a Dremel tool.

*If you are using a flex fuel kit the fuel line connectors going to the HPFP are different than OEM. You may need to do the HPFP inlet modification with the black manifold as well, see above.

If you are keeping your Evap solenoids we have provided a bracket to hold them to where the EGR valve was originally bolted in. Reuse OEM hardware to mount this bracket to the Evap solenoid bracket.

While the manifold is off its good to take a look at the different vacuum lines that you will need to connect to the intake manifold. Here is a breakdown of the possible connections you will need to make.

Brake Booster Line (COLOR DOTS)

This is one that everybody will have to connect. The OEM line has a one-way fitting in it so make sure you at least reuse that section and connect it in the same direction it came off the OEM manifold. Connect this line to the smaller of the two connections on top of the BRZ manifold. This system should stay exactly as it was from the factory. The blue dots show the line from the vacuum pump to the "T" connection. The Pink is from the booster to the "T" and the yellow is the what connects to the manifold.

PCV connection (NOT MARKED)

By the time you are doing this modification you should have already installed an AOS to this connection. The AOS will then connect to the intake manifold. You will need to use the larger of the top ports on the manifold for the PCV/AOS connection. If you don’t have an AOS you should get one but if you need to connect it anyway you can use a section of 3/8” line to connect the PCV to the intake manifold.

Evap solenoid and Bypass valve (green)

These are the two smaller lines that connected to the bottom of the OEM intake manifold. If you are keeping the Evap line then go ahead and use a “T” or “Y” connector as the BRZ manifold only has one connection on the bottom of the manifold. You will need an extra foot or two of 5/16" tubing for this connection.

Preparing the intake manifold

We recommend doing these next steps on a work bench to make life easier. The pictures below were taken after the parts were installed on the car but the intake manifold parts can be assembled off the car.

You will want to go ahead and bolt CNC machined the injector block off plugs into the BRZ injector location. First you have to install OEM lower injector seals then use 30mm M8 bolts included with the kit to bolt them in place.

Next you will bolt on the throttle body adapter. Use the four 25mm M8 bolts included with the kit. The black intake manifold comes with an O-ring style seal in the manifold. The red intake uses and standard flat gasket that you will need to buy separately. After you have attached the adapter go ahead and install the OEM WRX throttle body (the BRZ one will not work with the WRX electronics).

The BRZ uses a MAP sensor so you also need to intsall a block off for that as well. You can either use the OEM BRZ screw or the longer of the two M5 button head allen screws that come with the kit.

The longer of the two throttle body coolant line connection will need to be rotated up to clear the alternator. This can be done with some pliers. The connection will rotate, so no need to bend or damage the throttle body in any way.

Now it is time to go ahead and install the intake manifold. The bolts to use here are the OEM bolts that were originally used to hold the lower TGV housing to the heads.

Be careful to hand start each bolt before tightening any of them down. This will ensure the intake manifold is aligned properly and no cross threading occurs. Torque to 15 lb-ft.

This is a good time to reroute the IAT/MAP sensor wire and install the sensor in the side of the throttle body adapter.  Also install the throttle body extension harness and connect it to the WRX throttle body.

To finish the install you want to make sure all your vacuum line connections are in place and the alternator is reconnected. You will need to free up some slack in the alternator wiring as well as remove a small tab on the alternator post so that you can rotate the connection away from the throttle body. Connect your new/custom intercooler tubing and give the entire install a good look over to make sure nothing was missed.